The Rolex Directory
Rolex, catalogued.
The deepest guide to Rolex we could build — every major model, the references that matter, the bracelets that carry them, and the parts that separate an honest example from a Frankenstein.
Models
11 entries
Introduced 1953
Submariner
The archetype of the dive watch, and the most copied design in horology.
37mm (early) · 40mm · 41mm (current)
Introduced 1954
GMT-Master
Born for Pan Am pilots, adopted by every collector who crosses time zones.
38mm (6542) · 40mm · 40mm (II)
Introduced 1963
Cosmograph Daytona
A slow-selling chronograph that became the most coveted Rolex on earth.
37mm (manual) · 40mm
Introduced 1953
Explorer
The purest expression of the Oyster case—black dial, 3-6-9, nothing more.
36mm · 39mm · 36mm (current) · 40mm (current)
Introduced 1971
Explorer II
A cave-diver's watch with a fixed 24-hour bezel and orange arrow.
40mm · 42mm (current)
Introduced 1967
Sea-Dweller
A saturation diver's tool, born from a partnership with COMEX.
40mm · 43mm (current)
Introduced 1992
Yacht-Master
The Submariner's dressier cousin, born in platinum and gold.
29mm · 35mm · 37mm · 40mm · 42mm
Introduced 1945
Air-King
The Oyster in its simplest, most affordable form.
34mm · 40mm (2016+)
Introduced 1956
Milgauss
Rolex's anti-magnetic scientist's watch, twice-born and quietly discontinued.
38mm · 40mm
Introduced 1945
Datejust
The world's first self-winding waterproof chronometer with a date—and the best-value vintage Rolex.
31mm · 34mm · 36mm · 41mm
Introduced 1956
Day-Date (President)
The watch of presidents—precious metal, spelled-out day, President bracelet.
36mm · 40mm · 41mm
References
18 entries
Submariner
1962–1989
Submariner Date
1969–1979
Submariner Date
1988–2010
Submariner (No Date)
1990–2012
GMT-Master
1959–1980
GMT-Master
1980–1988
GMT-Master
1988–1999
Cosmograph Daytona
1963–1969
Cosmograph Daytona
1969–1988
Cosmograph Daytona
1970–1988
Explorer
1963–1989
Explorer
1989–2001
Explorer II
1971–1985
Submariner
1959–1978
Submariner
1956–1959
Datejust
1959–1977
Day-Date
1959–1977
Datejust
1977–1988
Bracelets & Clasps
9 entries
Riveted Oyster (6636 / 7206)
Oyster1950s–1967
The earliest Oyster bracelet—hollow links, exposed rivets, and unmistakable vintage rattle.
Folded-Link Oyster (7836 / 9315)
Oyster1967–1976
The transitional folded-link Oyster—no rivets, still hollow.
Solid Oyster (93150 / 93250)
Oyster1976–2000
The solid-center-link Oyster that became the modern sports bracelet.
Oyster 78360 / 78790A
Oyster1996–2000
The last of the hollow-end-link Oysters before Rolex went fully solid.
Oyster 97200 (Solid-End-Link)
Oyster2000–present
The modern solid Oyster with integrated end-links and Glidelock micro-adjustment.
Jubilee 62510H / 62523H
Jubilee1976–2000
The solid-center-link Jubilee that carried the Datejust through the modern era.
Jubilee 6251H (Folded)
Jubilee1950s–1976
The folded-link vintage Jubilee, hallmark of every 1601 and 1803.
President Bracelet (8385 / 18238-8)
President1956–present
Designed for the Day-Date, and made only in precious metal.
Oysterflex
Rubber2015–present
Rolex's first rubber bracelet—a titanium blade cast into high-performance elastomer.
Accessories & Service Parts
7 entries
Bezel Inserts
Case partsThe most swappable—and most-faked—part on a vintage sports Rolex.
Crowns & Tubes
Case partsThe Triplock, Twinlock, and Big Crown lineage.
Service Dials
DialsThe most legitimate way to ruin a vintage Rolex's value.
Hands & Luminous Compounds
Movement partsRadium, tritium, Luminova, Super-LumiNova—each era has its correct hands.
Boxes & Papers
ProvenanceThe 'full set' premium can double a vintage Rolex's value.
Acrylic Crystals
Case partsThe material that gives vintage Rolex its warm, curved-glass character.
Movement Service & Servicing History
Movement partsVintage movements should show honest wear, not factory-fresh finishes.