The Submariner is the reference against which every other dive watch is judged. Rolex introduced it at Basel in 1954, aimed squarely at the professional diver market opening up in the postwar Mediterranean. The formula—rotating timing bezel, luminous dial, 100m Oyster case—was so complete that seven decades of iteration have refined the details without altering the recipe. Vintage collectors trace three distinct eras: the early 'Big Crown' four-digit references of the 1950s; the workhorse 5512 and 5513 that carried the model through the 1960s and 70s; and the 1680, which added a date window and, in doing so, split the collector market forever. The transition to sapphire crystal and quickset date in 1979 (16800) modernized the watch, while the 2010 ceramic 'Cerachrom' bezel closed the vintage chapter for good. Values are driven by dial minutiae: 'Meters First' vs 'Feet First' text, gilt vs matte printing, tritium plot patina, and the coveted 'red Sub' script on early 1680s. A Submariner is the safest, most liquid Rolex you can own, and for most collectors, the first vintage Rolex worth chasing.
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Model
Rolex Submariner
The archetype of the dive watch, and the most copied design in horology.
- Introduced
- 1953
- Case sizes
- 37mm (early) · 40mm · 41mm (current)
- Notable references
- 62046538551255131680168001680001661014060116610126610
What to watch for
Refinished dials, replacement inserts, service hands, and 'polished-to-death' cases that have lost their crisp lugs.
In the directory
55131962–1989
The longest-running Submariner, and the definition of the vintage tool watch.
16801969–1979
The first date Submariner—and the origin of the 'Red Sub' obsession.
166101988–2010
The reference every modern Submariner is measured against.
140601990–2012
The purist's modern Submariner—no date, no cyclops, no compromise.
55121959–1978
The chronometer-certified sibling to the 5513, and the first crown-guard Sub.
65381956–1959
The 'James Bond' Big Crown Submariner.