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Model

Rolex Air-King

The Oyster in its simplest, most affordable form.

Introduced
1945
Case sizes
34mm · 40mm (2016+)
Notable references
550014000114200116900

The Air-King is the workhorse of the Rolex catalog and the entry point for generations of new collectors. Introduced in 1945 to honor RAF pilots, it spent most of its life as a 34mm no-date Oyster with an interchangeable rotor bar—the 5500 ran from 1957 to 1989 and represents one of the longest-lived references in Rolex history. Early 5500s wore beautiful glossy dials with applied Explorer-style 3-6-9 markers and stand as some of the most quietly elegant vintage Rolexes at accessible prices. The 2016 116900 broke tradition entirely: a 40mm case, black dial with mixed 3-6-9 and full Arabic minute track, and a Milgauss-derived anti-magnetic movement. Collectors are divided; historians know the 5500 is the real Air-King.

What to watch for

Service dials on 5500s (originals have specific tritium patina), and 34mm cases refinished into a rounded profile.

Hunt every vintage Air-King that surfaces.